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Ephesus: An Ancient Metropolis Under a New Light
UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015
Once a thriving port city of the ancient world, one of the Seven Churches of Revelation, and the site of Türkiye’s longest-running archaeological excavation, Ephesus offers an extraordinary window into life in a Greco-Roman metropolis two millennia ago. A day trip from İzmir makes it easily accessible. For a truly magical experience, consider an overnight stay in nearby Selçuk. After sunset, the city takes on an entirely new allure, with carefully designed lighting bringing its most iconic landmarks to life. These strategically placed lighting fixtures guide you through the marble-paved streets, past the majestic Library of Celsus and the Great Theater —Türkiye’s largest, once resonating with the cheers of 30,000 spectators. Be sure not to miss the International Ephesus Opera and Ballet Festival. Each summer, this spectacle transforms the Great Theater of Ephesus into a stunning stage for the performing arts, drawing thousands of culture aficionados to these hallowed grounds.
Excavations near the Küçük Menderes River (known in antiquity as the Kaystros River) show that the early human settlement around the city goes back to the Neolithic Times. However, the city rose to its truest fame when the legendary Temple of Artemis was built around the 2nd century BCE for the goddess Artemis —a direct continuation of the Anatolian Mother Goddess. She was specifically referred to as the “Ephesian Artemis,” not to be confused with the Greek Artemis, the huntress and daughter of Zeus. Recognized as one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, this Ephesian temple became a pilgrimage destination for merchants, kings, and sightseers, many of whom paid homage to Artemis through offerings of jewelry and other valuables.
Ephesus was relocated to its current location sometime in the 1st century BCE —a necessity due to the silting of the Kaystros River. When Augustus declared himself emperor in 27 BCE, he designated Ephesus the capital of the Roman Province of Asia, and it flourished for nearly a thousand years until the Kaystros once again silted up its harbors, leading to its decline.
For over 120 years, the Austrian Archaeological Institute has been overseeing the excavation of the site. Among the notable structures uncovered are the Library of Celsus, the Gate of Mazaeus and Mithridates, the Temple of Hadrian, and the elaborately decorated terrace houses that offer a glimpse into the lives of the wealthy Roman families of the time. The city’s well-preserved baths, gymnasium, and two agoras —one for commerce and one for state affairs— offer a vivid reflection of the significance of this former metropolis.
NOT TO MISS: Selçuk is home to the Ephesus Museum, with the impressive marble statues of the Ephesian Artemis, among others, as well as the remains of the Basilica of St. John scattered around Ayasuluk Hill in the town center. The House of the Virgin Mary, a nearby chapel just seven kilometers from Ephesus, is itself a major focus of Christian pilgrimage. Şirince, a picturesque little town 12 kilometers from Ephesus, delights visitors with beautifully preserved wooden Ottoman houses and local wines crafted from regional berries and fruits. An afternoon of local wine tasting in Şirince, followed by an evening tour of Ephesus, would be a great idea.
